Dry fit your rods. Before you begin anything you want to unpack your rods, and dry fit with the finials attached. Remember, your rods are going to project from the wall 4″ or so, so you want to guarantee that everything will fit. It was a tight squeeze for me. Normally I would place the rod supports further out on each side, but because the space was so tight I lined them up with the exact edge of the window trim.

Determine the height you’d like to place your rods at. Rule of thumb is typically high and wide to make your window feel grand. For me, I could only accommodate the “high” part of that equation. I matched the height of the living room rods. They float 10.5″ above the top of the window trim. I would also recommend starting on one side of the bay window and moving across. I will be starting my project on the left window.

Use a tape measure to mark the placement of your brackets. A level is also a good tool to have around. Double check your level from mark to mark. I needed to make sure I was plumb from the edge of the window trim to the place I marked. If you have a laser level, now would be the perfect time to use it. I left mine at the cabin.

The hardware for this curtain rod included a metal cleat to attach the bracket to the wall. Make sure you are using proper anchoring hardware if you do not have a stud that you can screw into. For plaster walls I would recommend a masonry anchor with a plastic sleeve, and for drywall or sheet rock, try a self tapping anchor.

Slip the bracket onto the cleat and tighten with an allen wrench.

Make sure to keep the side of the bracket ring with the small hole facing down. This will come in handy later if you need to use the screw to tweak the level of the rod. I’m not sure if that is what it’s technically for, but that’s what I have been known to use it for.

Install your rod. Minimize the length of your rod and then extend it to fit between the two bracket holes. If you’ll be using curtain rings, I would recommend slipping them onto your rods now as it will get tricky to do so after the rods are installed. Attach the finial and corner connecter to the rod.

Repeat these steps with both the middle section and right window.

I think I have my own way of pleating curtains, it’s a casual pleat with a little bit of elegance and I do it by ironing and clipping pleats in place. I do love a good pleat, but here in the living room, I like to juxtapose casual and modern elements with more formal ones. Curtains naturally come with an air of formality, and I didn’t want it to be too stuffy. So, made-up-laid-back-pleats it is! (these measurements are for Ikea curtain, 57″ width)

Start by folding your curtain in half and pressing the fold. You’ll work one half of the curtain and then switch to the other, otherwise it becomes too much fabric to control. This will be your middle pleat.

*Note: Press pleats about a foot from the top of the curtain, from there they will hang loosely on their own

Work from the outside of the first half and work inwards to the middle crease. Start the first pleat by folding back the edge of the curtain 2″ and then pressing the top of the pleat.

In an accordion style, fold back the next pleat. The width of the pleat will be 4 1/4″. Press the pleat with your iron on high.

For Ikea curtains I press only the top 12″ or so of the pleat. I use the high setting on my iron and a lot of steam.

Continue working the pleats back in fourth in an accordion or fan pattern every 4 1/4″ until you reach the center pleat. Press the pleats on each fold.

Once you have completed pressing the first half of the curtain, begin doing the same steps on the other side. Starting with the initial 2″ pleat and then continuing every 4 1/4″. When you have completed the pressing you should be left with 7 pleats.